I am strongly against exhibitions tastings—they are fast, crowded and are essentially against the whole premise of how we consume great wines, supposedly calmly, relaxed and with peace of mind. But the wines of Schiavenza peer through this kind of obstacle and get right into the bloodstream. I met Walter Anselma to re-taste his wines in Paris, thankfully, the exhibition was almost over and exhibitors were leaving their stands en masse: some to get to the airport, others to hit local bistrots and restaurants.
Nestled in the village of Serralunga, one of Barolo’s most structurally powerful and long-lived terroirs (they say), Schiavenza has enamored me with dreamy, nuanced wines that—in the right atmosphere—defy gravity and send you mind racing to outer space. With its roots tracing back to the early 1950s, this small but fiercely respected estate has remained steadfast in its commitment to classic, terroir-driven Nebbiolos. Schiavenza’s holdings include parcels in some of the most prestigious crus of Serralunga, known for producing wines of remarkable depth and elegance. The estate is run by the second-generation Alessandria sisters, Enrica and Maura, and their husbands Luciano Pira and Walter Anselma.
Of the crus they are focused are Cerretta, a top Serralunga cru with a mix of clay, limestone, and iron-rich sandstone, producing wines of finesse and deep aromatic complexity; Prapò – near Cerretta but with a slightly higher proportion of sand, giving Barolos that balance power with a floral, lifted elegance; Broglio – a softer expression of Serralunga’s power, with calcareous soils that yield silky yet structured wines; Perno – More exposed and windswept, this vineyard produces expressive, perfumed wines with tannins that feel slightly more approachable in youth than other Schiavenza crus.
And, finally, Serralunga (commune-level Barolo) – a blend of different parcels capturing the classic muscularity of Serralunga’s terroir, with firm tannins, brisk acidity, and an unmistakable mineral backbone.
Slavonian inside—and what else?
Schiavenza remains deeply traditional, adhering to long macerations, native yeast fermentations, and aging in large Slavonian oak botti rather than small French barriques. The winemaking philosophy is designed to highlight site expression over stylistic manipulation. Extended macerations (often 30+ days on skins) bring depth and tannic complexity. Aging in large Slavonian oak casks (often 36+ months for Barolo) ensures slow oxygenation without intrusive oak influence. Minimal intervention in the cellar, preserving the natural vibrancy and structure of Nebbiolo.
That’s all great stuff, but better get to tasting the wines with Walter. All of them are current vintages tasted in February 2025.
Langhe Nebbiolo 2022
A Barolo in spirit, if not in name. This Langhe Nebbiolo delivers a strikingly close experience to its grander sibling—just a bit shorter in length, a touch less perfumed, and with a rustic tannic grip that gives it a raw charm. Bright red fruit and subtle earth tones make it an exceptional introduction to Serralunga’s terroir. A no-nonsense, high-character Nebbiolo that overdelivers. 91 points
Barolo Cerretta 2020
An aromatic showstopper. The 2020 Cerretta is all about ethereal perfume—mellow roses floating above an undercurrent of savory depth. The structure is impeccable, with silk-threaded tannins and an absurdly long finish. There’s even a whisper of mushrooms adding intrigue. A wine that invites quiet admiration before shocking you with its persistence. 95 points
Barolo Perno 2021
Barolo in bloom. The fragrance is a floral spectacle, evoking roses, violets, and a touch of wild herbs. Tannins are impossibly refined, melting into the wine like a cloud dispersing in sunlight. An elegant, almost weightless expression of Perno’s power, proving that strength doesn’t have to shout. 93 points
Barolo Serralunga 2021
A masterclass in balance. The 2021 Serralunga d’Alba Barolo carries its power with restraint—intensity without aggression, acidity that lifts rather than bites. Everything is in harmony, from the soft-spoken fruit to the steady, structured core. It’s a wine of quiet confidence, rewarding those who pay attention. 94 points
Barolo Broglio 2021
A silk-draped powerhouse. The Broglio vineyard’s signature tannins are as refined as they come, offering an extraordinary softness without sacrificing depth. There’s a quiet authority here—velvety, persistent, and richly layered. A Barolo that impresses not by force, but by sheer grace. 94 points
Barolo Cerretta 2021
Where power meets poise. The 2021 Cerretta offers structure without austerity, elegance without fragility. A Barolo built for the long haul, with finely etched tannins and a core of dark fruit, iron, and floral complexity. Every element is precisely placed, making it a wine of effortless refinement. 94 points
Barolo Prapò 2021
A deep dive into Barolo’s wild side. Prapò brings brooding depth and haunting length, carrying aromas of fir needles, damp earth, and dark berries. The forest floor character is unmistakable, grounding the wine’s lifted aromatics with a sense of place. A Barolo that speaks in layers, revealing new dimensions with every sip.